The Tibetan table

The May holiday found me exploring the spectacular Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau and sampling local dishes.

The staple elements of Tibetan food are reflective of the high altitude and active lifestyles of the people. Traditionally barley, yak and mutton, and yak dairy produce (cheese, butter, milk and yoghurt) predominate. Fruit and vegetables were previously scarce as they failed to grow in the inherently harsh conditions - potatoes and radishes were hardy exceptions. Presently greenhouse cultivation has enabled a much greater abundance and variety.

Barley is an enduring crop, able to withstand cold temperatures and short growing seasons and so is the staple grain of the area. It contains insufficient gluten for bread-making but instead is used to make Tsampa. The barley is roasted and ground to flour and butter tea poured on to bind. The mixture is kneaded to form a dough and molded into bite-size balls, which are eaten uncooked. More tea may be added to give a watery consistency which is eaten as gruel.

Momos are fairly sizeable Tibetan dumplings. Again barley flour is used in the wrapping making them somewhat heavier their normal dumplings. Minced yak or lamb meat flavored with coriander, onion and spices are used for the filling.

In contrast with most Chinese cuisine, meat often comes in large hunks or on the bone with few other ingredients added. It may be boiled or slow cooked until tender and falling off the bone, or barbecued. During the winter months, strips of meat are air dried and stored for consumption the following year. A variety of different sausages are also consumed.

Meat is featured highly on the Tibetan menu, but a nutritious vegetarian option is vegetable Thukpa. This dish comprises thick flat noodles, spring onions, coriander in a spicy broth flavored with ginger, garlic and cumin. It is worth stating a vegetable preference to avoid the addition of meat.

Yak milk has a high calcium and protein content meaning it coagulates easily to make yak milk products. The distinctive aroma of yak butter pervades throughout the region, and it is not only used as food, but also to make beautiful painted butter sculptures and as fuel for candles. At best, the flavor can be likened to parmesan cheese, at worst described as tangy and rancid. Once the butter is separated from the milk, this may then be turned into yoghurt, which is eaten almost daily.

Tea is the most popular tipple. Yak butter tea is certainly an acquired taste. Although high in fat and salt, it serves its purpose, and is seemingly more palatable at high altitudes when an energy boost is required. The tea is brewed with boiling water and then churned with butter, milk and salt. Yak milk tea, a frothy mixture of black tea, fresh milk and sugar, is certainly a more palatable and soothing drink.

For an authentic Tibetan experience, Makye Ame (2/F, 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai) serves barbecued lamb and hand-pulled yak meat with live vocal accompaniment.